Loch Tuath, Isle of Mull

Loch Tuath is the sea loch that separates the Isle of Mull from its smaller neighbour the Isle of Ulva. It is memorable to me for two impressive sights; the Eas Falls and my second ever Golden Eagle.

The lochs wild and rugged shores are edged with trees; rowan, alder and hazel huddle together in a continuous woody band hugging the lower slopes of the hills. Above these stumpy and wind shaped trees I encountered one of Mulls most impressive birds soaring gracefully on the gentle afternoon breeze.

Eagle country

There is no mistaking a golden eagle when you see one. Spotting a buzzard is exciting, but seeing a Golden eagle is extraordinary - there is no comparison.  I have spotted many a buzzard in the past in my desperate search to see my first ever Golden Eagle. I often wondered whether or not they were in fact eagles as they often seemed so graceful and impressive. But having now experienced 7 Golden Eagle sightings, all but one on Mull, I can honestly say that if there is any doubt then it is not an eagle!

These impressive and beautiful creatures are a joy to watch and are just as exciting to see for the seventh time as the first. On the edge of Loch Tuath we stood and watched our eagle for several minutes before it soared up and away and into the next bay.

The hillsides around the loch are constantly running with small streams carrying ice cold clear water from the slopes down into the loch. In places these streams run wide and full; the most impressive of which form Eas Fors a series of waterfalls flowing directly into the loch.

Upper section of Eas Fors

Middle section

There are three sections to Eas Fors, the upper falls, the middle section and the lower falls which plunge 100 feet to fall directly onto the beach. The lower section is much harder to reach and requires a longer walk, the other two sections can be accessed from the road.

At the head of Loch Tuath is the narrow straight separating Mull from the Isle of Ulva a short ferry crossing away.

Loch Tuath Facts

OS Map 1:50 000 Sheet 47

Loch Na Keal, Mull

Wild and remote; Loch na Keal epitomises the rugged natural beauty of Mull. Even on a dull winters day the landscape is breathtaking.

Loch Na Keal or loch of the cliffs lies on the west coast of Mull. It consists of a wide outer loch divided from Loch Tuath by the islands of Ulva and Gometra and a narrower inner loch which extends inland to Gruline almost dissecting Mull in half.

Loch Na Keal looking towards Griburn

The southern shores are mountainous and rugged and are watched over by Mull's only munro -Ben More rising to 966 m.  A single track road follows the shoreline from Gruline to the towering cliffs at Gribun. This is sea eagle country; the loch a popular haunt for these majestic birds.

The beaches along the edge of the loch are stony and broad and in places the retreating tide reveals large pavements and abundant rock pools.

Ben more and the shores of Loch Na Keal

As I stood on the shore in the fading light and drizzle of a winter afternoon a flock of Goosanders swam slowly along the waters edge; the only obvious signs of life on the vast cold waters.

A quaint stone bridge lies just across the beach from my vantage point, spanning a small stream which tumbles over boulders  and hurries in a spray of white water to the sea. This looks like perfect otter territory but I was not to be rewarded with a sighting this time.

The fresh water flows into the loch

A little further along the loch towards Griburn the land rises up into towering unstable cliffs of scree, black and devoid of vegetation. Road signs warn of falling boulders and the evidence is everywhere; small black lumps litter the short grassy verges. The beaches here are much narrower and the water much deeper at the edges.

Wind sculpted tree on the shore of Loch Na Keal

The shore side road turns to head inland from here and as the road climbed I turned to look at the breathtaking view and all the islands laid out before me; Eorsa, Inch Kenneth, Samalan, Ulva, Gometra and Little Colonsay. 

Merrily, merrily goes the bark
On a breeze from the northward free
So shoots through the morning sky the lark
Or the swan through the summer sea
The shores of Mull on the eastward lay
And Ulva dark and Colonsay
And all the group of islet gay
That guard famed Staffa round.

Sir Walter Scott, The Lord of the Isles,

Loch Na Keal Facts

OS Map 1:50 000 Sheet 47

Loch a' Chumhainn, Isle of Mull

Loch a' Chumhainn is a small sea loch in a rugged coastline in the northwest of Mull. It is a quiet and beautiful location with some amazing views particularly from Croig beach.

The loch is 2 1/4 miles long with the village of Dervaig lying at its head. It's shores are jagged and full of tiny coves and bays with white sandy beaches and abundant wildlife.

The tiny settlement of Croig is located near the mouth of the loch and can be accessed by a single track road from the main Tobermory to Calgary route. At Croig you will find an old stone pier loaded with creels and other fishing paraphernalia and one or two houses overlooking the water. The shoresides here are rocky and flat, rising on the opposite bank to form a low lying headland. A beautiful old fishing boat lays abandoned and decaying just inland from the pier; no longer a safe platform for fishing she is however still beautiful in my eyes and a great bonus for a photographer!

Derelict boat on the shores of Loch a'Chumhainn

Being a sea loch the water retreats at low tide to reveal a blanket of seaweed along its shores; a perfect feeding ground for wading birds. Curlews and oyster catches roamed the tideline filling the quiet winter air with their shrill cries.

At the head of the tiny inlet upon which Croig sits is a five bar gate and a path which leads around the loch to Croig beach on the far side. If you climb the low headland here the views along the coast and Loch a Chumhainn are amazing.

View from the headland across Croig beach

The islands just offshore are a favourite haunt for seals and as we stood watching we could see several hauled out on the rocks making the most of the weak winter sunshine.

It is possible to walk all around the headlands here discovering tiny coves and clean white stretches of sand. It is the perfect combination of peace and natural charm.

One of the tiny bays looking back towards Loch a'Chamhainn

This area is a wildlife haven and is home to otters and many seashore birds including Red breasted Mergansers, Goosanders, curlew, oyster catchers and snipe.

Dervaig at the head of the loch is a much larger village with a wonderful outlook over the water. This village dates back to the Vikings; and Dervaig itself means "good inlet" in old Norse. The most prominent feature is Kilmore church which looks out over the loch shores. Despite appearances this white building is not that old having been built in 1905, but it is unusual with its pencil tower and well worth a visit.

Loch a'Chumhainn facts

OS sheet 1:50 000 sheet 47
Loch a'Chumhainn is 2 1/4 miles long and is very narrow in places.

The Medway Estuary, Kent

Being just the other side of the Thames Estuary I had expected the Medway to be similar to the Estuaries of Essex; a winding waterway, muddy at low tide and edged with saltmarsh and reedbeds. In some ways the Medway is true to this description, but it is a much more industrial river than I had anticipated and it is this man made influence that has shaped much of the estuaries character.

Our first stop was Upnor; a riverside settlement comprising the villages of Lower and Upper Upnor. For character and charm the main street in Upper Upnor is hard to beat. There are some wonderful houses fronting onto this cobbled highway which leads down to the river and the impressive remains of Upnor Castle. .

Upper Upnor with its cobbled main street leading to the river

This little street is a delightful snapshot of a bygone era, beautifully preserved and tranquil, we wondered what stories these characterful buildings had to tell.

At the end of the street is Upnor Castle. Built in 1559 this is a rare example of an Elizabethan artillery fort. It looks out over the Medway to the historic dockyard at Chatham. The river here is wide and busy, but there is none of the heavy industry associated with the mouth of the estuary. Instead there is an air of prosperity; newly built offices tower over the redeveloped dockyard and Chatham marina bustles with posh yachts and motor boats.

Looking across the Medway to Chatham dockyard and marina

Further upstream the river runs into Rochester, but we headed out to the Isle of Grain and the estuary mouth.

The Isle of Grain is the most easterly point of the Hoo peninsular and is a bizarre and strangely fascinating place. Much of the island is marshland which supports a diverse array of  wetland birds, but the south of the island is an important industrial area. As we crossed the road bridge onto the isle the contrast between the wild marshland and the heavy industry that has mushroomed along side was evident. Sheep grazed the marshes in front of stark metal pylons and chimneys towered above the flat landscape.

At the end of the road is Grain village, a residential island in a sea of industry. We walked along a footpath to the coast and looked out over the mouth of the Medway.

Turnstones sit on the water outfall of the power station in front of the Grain Tower Battery

In front of us stood the Grain tower battery; the remains of a fort built in 1855 and similar in design to the East Coast Martello towers of Essex and Suffolk. The structure is connected to the mainland by a causeway, viable only at low tide,  and has the prestigious address of "No. 1,  The Thames" Sitting isolated in a calm sea the tower looked quite beautiful in the early evening light.

The Grain Tower Battery

Behind us the Isle of Grain power station provided a rather stark contrast to the tranquil scene out at sea.

Walking along the river wall it was evident that despite the islands industrial presence wildlife was thriving. Flocks of turnstones scurried along the shore line picking at bits of seaweed and debris along the tide line. The calls of oystercatcher, redshank and curlew rang out over the estuary and in front of the power station a swath of reeds shimmered and bristled in the setting sun.

This is not a landscape full of natural wonders but it is beautiful none the less in its own unique way.

The Medway Estuary facts

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The Medway rises in high Weald, Sussex and flows 70 miles before reaching the sea.

In 1088 Rochester Castle was built, to defend the Medway Estuary from invaders.

Chatham Dockyard was established by Elizabeth I of England in 1568. In its heyday thousands of men were employed here and hundreds of ships were launched here including HMS Victory.

Thousands of water birds visit the Medway every year and the estuary is an important site for waders, and several species of ducks and geese.

A really interesting little booklet about the River Medway and its surrounds can be found here

The Colne Estuary, Essex

Wivenhoe, a small and characterful town popular with artists seemed a good place to begin my exploration of the Colne Estuary. It is home to one of my favourite marine artists, James Dodds, who has beautifully captured the essence of this riverside town in his linocut "Wivenhoe past and present". Complex in detail this image portrays the relationship between the town and the estuary and illustrates the reliance on the waterway that has grown and developed over many centuries.

Wivenhoe lies on the east shore of the estuary about 3 miles south east of Colchester where it developed as a port for its larger neighbour. The town was recorded in the Domesday book of 1086 but really established it's significance with the growth of its fishing and shipbuilding industries. In the 18th Century the towns upstream shipyard built a succession of fishing smacks and cargo vessels, a ropery flourished and the fishing fleet landed sprats and oysters. By the end of the 19th century a dry dock had been build and commercial vessels constructed from riveted metal plate were the order of the day. Unfortunately after the war the shipbuilding industry went into decline and the yards at Wivenhoe eventually closed in 1992.

Today Wivenhoe is a picturesque waterside town, a successful blend of traditional architecture and modern waterside living.

Wivenhoe Waterfront

The waterfront is full of character and colour and it is easy to see why this place has become so popular with the artistic community. Sailing boats and fishing vessels line the waterfront watched over by a mixture of quaint old buildings and modern apartments. There is an air of affluence here among the modern waterfront which contrasts nicely with the muddy estuary and the more rustic shoreline.

Wivenhoe

Half way along the front is the Nottage Maritime Museum a fantastic place for learning about boat-building and nautical skills. It also houses an amazing collection of memorabilia relating to the River Colne and is open on most Sundays during the summer months.

As you stroll further along the shoreline you eventually reach the Colne tidal barrier which was built in 1993 to protect the town and surrounding land from tidal and storm surge flooding. It is a huge concrete and steel structure and looks imposing and out of place in its surroundings. Beyond the barrier lies Wivenhoe Sailing Club and an estuary that immediately becomes wild and unoccupied.

Colne Estuary from Wivenhoe Sailing Club

From Wivenhoe the Colne flows through muddy banks alive with the sound of waders, twisting and turning on its journey to the coast.

The bustling town of Brightlingsea lies at the mouth of the Colne Estuary on the junction with Brightlingsea Creek. Although not a large settlement the town has an importance as a port which goes back to the eleven hundreds when the Confederation of Cinque Ports was established. This consisted of 5 towns along the South Coast and 23 connected towns and villages known as" limbs" and Brightlingsea became a limb for the Cinque Port of Sandwich. The Cinque ports were originally formed for military and trade purposes however their significance today is purely ceremonial.

Brightlingsea is a happy place full of activity. It is a town which delights in its connections with the water and the estuary that it sits along side. There is a strong watersports scene here with two sailing clubs and a rowing club situated along the waterfront and a multitude of water based businesses around the town.

Brightlingsea Waterfront

The main harbour lies opposite the town centre and is a hub of activity. To the left of the Colne sailing club is the Aldous Heritage Smack Dock; a site acquired for the preservation and conservation of these graceful working boats.

At the far end of town the promenade, backed by a row of colourful beach huts, leads out to Batemans tower a folly built in 1883. From its position at the mouth of the estuary it is possible to see right across to Stone point in one direction and Mersea Island in the other.

Batemans Tower

Batemans Tower

Colne Estuary Facts

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The Colne Estuary is an important habitat for wildlife and is one of the most protected areas on the East Coast. It comprises a variety of different habitats including:
Tidal mud flats 30%
Salt marshes 25%
Freshwater marshes 20%
Estuarine waters 19%
Sand / shingle shores (including dune systems) 3%
Coastal brackish / saline lagoons 2%
Marine beds (e.g. sea grass beds) 1%

The Colne estuary is an SSSI
Brightlingsea Marshes, East Mersea and Colne Point form part of the Colne Estuary National Nature Reserve.
Colne Point, Fingringhoe Wick and Howlands Marsh are owned and managed as nature reserves by the Essex Wildlife Trust.

Oulton Broad (Lake Lothing and the River Waveney), Suffolk

Standing on the bridge over Mutford Lock it is possible to look over two very different bodies of water. To the West lies Oulton Broad a vast expanse of fresh water leading to the River Waveney and the Broads whilst to the East lies Lake Lothing a salt water lake busy with shipping and seemingly overwhelmed by heavy industry. Mutford Lock forms the dividing line between these two very different worlds and provides a gateway from one to the other.

Technically Oulton Broad and Lake Lothing are not estuaries and are actually man made features but I have included them because they provide an important and well used access point to the Broads National Park; the UK's largest wetland habitat.

Mutford Lock is a busy place, both on and off the water. The A1117 carries traffic over the bridge whilst pleasure boats traveling to and from the Broads keep the lock in regular use. We strolled around the edge of the Broad from the Wherry Hotel to Nicholas Everitt park. Not exactly peaceful as we never escaped the road noise, but pleasant enough, our entertainment provided by a huge flock of greylag geese keeping busy on the wind blown choppy waters of the Broad.

Mutford Lock, Oulton Broad

Oulton Broad

There is something about parts of the Broads that never feel natural to me, and maybe that is partly due to its man made origins, but also I think it has taken on a theme park feel in places and has somehow lost its wild side. That is not to say that nature is not abundant here, because it is, it's just for me it seems too managed and artificial.

Crossing the road over Mutford Lock and wandering along the shores of Lake Lothing the area feels more raw, much less pretty but somehow more real. Gone are the flocks of geese so domestic in their appearance replaced by more typical estuarine species. Comical turnstones hurrying about their business on the wooden pontoons and a cormorant drying his wings on a post in the sunshine. It felt to me that by just crossing the lock from Oulton Broad to Lake Lothing the wild had returned.

Lake Lothing

Lake Lothing is industrial, there is no getting away from it. The shore is dotted with boatyards and boat builders, engineering works and industrial buildings and the water is full of fishing vessels and working boats. There is a general air of chaos everywhere and decay in places but despite this the place has a certain charm.

Rickety jetty, Lake Lothing

Lake Lothing continues east from Mutford Lock to Lowestoft where it flows out into the North Sea.

Today Lowestoft is  typical of many seaside towns suffering its fair share of decline and hard times. For despite its long sandy beaches its fortunes have not always been rosy.

The town grew up around the herring fishing industry in the 1800's. In 1830 the harbour was constructed allowing easy access for the herring drifters which worked the East Coast for most of the 19th Century.

The herring fishing industry went into decline at the start of the first world war when stocks began to decline and  most of the fishing fleet was seconded by the Royal Navy. Today Lowestoft still relies on the sea to boost its economy, although now it is the oil gas and wind farms which are the biggest offshore employers.

The town has grown up on either side of the harbour. On the south is the marina, the Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club and the RNLI station, whilst the north side is more industrial with moorings for the wind farm catamarans and large shipping.

Lowestoft Harbour

Lowestoft Harbour

Lake Lothing runs out to  meet the North Sea through a narrow harbour entrance flanked by two pagoda type lighthouses, a rather utilitarian entrance in keeping with the waters industrial feel.

Harbour entrance and the North Sea

Lake Lothing and Oulton Broad facts

OS Explorer Map OL40

Imray Chart 2000-10

Sailing Clubs;

Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club at Lowestoft

Waveney and Oulton Broad Yacht Club

The Stour Estuary, Suffolk

As I strolled along the banks of Holbrook Creek enjoying the weak winter sunshine I noticed something moving on the gravel at the waters edge. At first glance it looked as if the beach was alive, twisting and turning and running from the encroaching tide, but on closer inspection I discovered a flock of Turnstones hurriedly pacing up and down at the waters edge flicking pebbles and bits of seaweed in all directions .

Turnstones at Holbrook Creek

These comical little birds are some of my favourite estuary inhabitants and can often be seen close to shore on a rising tide. They are amazingly well camouflaged thanks to their mottled plumage, but once spotted are easy to watch because they are so tame and it is possible to get almost within touching distance before they fly away. Seemingly undeterred by human presence these little birds are opportunists and I have even seen them being hand fed at Harwich Pier. 

This morning at Holbrook they were behaving true to their name turning stone after stone in search of insects and small crustaceans. I watched them for some time enjoying their antics before leaving them to continue my walk around the creek.

Holbrook is a beautiful and peaceful place devoid of water for much of the day it comes alive at high tide when the tranquil waters bob with little sail boats. Areas of saltmarsh and mutflats edge the creek bounded by high river walls. On the western shore lies the Royal Hospital School; an imposing building designed by arts and crafts architect Herbert Tudor Buckland. The school was originally founded in Greenwich at the turn of the 18th century to cater for the sons of naval men. It moved to its current location at Holbrook in 1933.

The Royal Hospital School looks out over Holbrook Creek.

Holbrook is one of several creeks along the Stour estuary a wide but gentle waterway flowing from Catawade at the head of the navigation all the way to Harwich harbour and the North Sea. The Stour was once an important trade route with barges regularly carrying goods to and from the port of Mistley.

This small town on the Essex side of the estuary has long been associated with barges and barge building and in 1919 the F.W. Horlock Ocean Transport Company opened a yard at Mistley and began building steel ships. In 10 years the yard turned out many barges including the well know vessels Repertor,  Xylonite, Adieu and Reminder. These graceful old ladies are still sailing the East Coast today and are a wonderful legacy to a forgotten era.

SB Xylonite

Although the barge trade may be consigned to the past the Stour is still an important waterway, but it is now one with two very different identities. At its mouth it displays its industrial side with the international ferry terminal at Harwich and its adjacent oil terminal but travel a little further inland and the estuary becomes very much more natural with large swaths currently owned by the RSPB. It is these contrasts which make the estuary so interesting and one of the best ways to appreciate it is on foot following the Stour / Orwell long distance path.

From the marina at Shotley it is possible to walk along the river path past the wide mudflats of Cockle Creek, the vast expanse of saltmarsh at Erwarton Bay and the stony beach at Erwarton Ness before eventually arriving at the enigmatically named Johnny All Alone Creek.

The port of Harwich

Erwarton Ness

Johnny All Alone Creek

The landscape here is flat and the estuary wide exaggerating the distance to the opposite bank. The little creek with its intriguing name is a tranquil place where it is easy to feel at one with the surroundings. I often wonder whether this place is named a after a real character and if so what his life must have been like living in such a remote part of the Suffolk Coast. It is easy to see the attraction today of such an abode; how many of us have dreamed of escaping the modern world to spend our days in a beautiful and uplifting spot such as this? The realities may well have been very different hundreds of years ago but today it is hard to imagine a more perfect spot to escape to.

Stour Estuary Facts

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Imray nautical chart 2000.5 Rivers Stour and Orwell

The Stour estuary has one marina, 4 sailing clubs and many anchorages between Harwich and Maningtree.

The Stour / Orwell walk is a 42 mile route from Catawade at the head of the Stour estuary to Felixstowe on the Orwell.

Imray 2000.5 Rivers Stour and OrwellImray 2000.5 Rivers Stour and Orwell