Loch Tuath, Isle of Mull

Loch Tuath is the sea loch that separates the Isle of Mull from its smaller neighbour the Isle of Ulva. It is memorable to me for two impressive sights; the Eas Falls and my second ever Golden Eagle.

The lochs wild and rugged shores are edged with trees; rowan, alder and hazel huddle together in a continuous woody band hugging the lower slopes of the hills. Above these stumpy and wind shaped trees I encountered one of Mulls most impressive birds soaring gracefully on the gentle afternoon breeze.

Eagle country

There is no mistaking a golden eagle when you see one. Spotting a buzzard is exciting, but seeing a Golden eagle is extraordinary - there is no comparison.  I have spotted many a buzzard in the past in my desperate search to see my first ever Golden Eagle. I often wondered whether or not they were in fact eagles as they often seemed so graceful and impressive. But having now experienced 7 Golden Eagle sightings, all but one on Mull, I can honestly say that if there is any doubt then it is not an eagle!

These impressive and beautiful creatures are a joy to watch and are just as exciting to see for the seventh time as the first. On the edge of Loch Tuath we stood and watched our eagle for several minutes before it soared up and away and into the next bay.

The hillsides around the loch are constantly running with small streams carrying ice cold clear water from the slopes down into the loch. In places these streams run wide and full; the most impressive of which form Eas Fors a series of waterfalls flowing directly into the loch.

Upper section of Eas Fors

Middle section

There are three sections to Eas Fors, the upper falls, the middle section and the lower falls which plunge 100 feet to fall directly onto the beach. The lower section is much harder to reach and requires a longer walk, the other two sections can be accessed from the road.

At the head of Loch Tuath is the narrow straight separating Mull from the Isle of Ulva a short ferry crossing away.

Loch Tuath Facts

OS Map 1:50 000 Sheet 47

Loch Na Keal, Mull

Wild and remote; Loch na Keal epitomises the rugged natural beauty of Mull. Even on a dull winters day the landscape is breathtaking.

Loch Na Keal or loch of the cliffs lies on the west coast of Mull. It consists of a wide outer loch divided from Loch Tuath by the islands of Ulva and Gometra and a narrower inner loch which extends inland to Gruline almost dissecting Mull in half.

Loch Na Keal looking towards Griburn

The southern shores are mountainous and rugged and are watched over by Mull's only munro -Ben More rising to 966 m.  A single track road follows the shoreline from Gruline to the towering cliffs at Gribun. This is sea eagle country; the loch a popular haunt for these majestic birds.

The beaches along the edge of the loch are stony and broad and in places the retreating tide reveals large pavements and abundant rock pools.

Ben more and the shores of Loch Na Keal

As I stood on the shore in the fading light and drizzle of a winter afternoon a flock of Goosanders swam slowly along the waters edge; the only obvious signs of life on the vast cold waters.

A quaint stone bridge lies just across the beach from my vantage point, spanning a small stream which tumbles over boulders  and hurries in a spray of white water to the sea. This looks like perfect otter territory but I was not to be rewarded with a sighting this time.

The fresh water flows into the loch

A little further along the loch towards Griburn the land rises up into towering unstable cliffs of scree, black and devoid of vegetation. Road signs warn of falling boulders and the evidence is everywhere; small black lumps litter the short grassy verges. The beaches here are much narrower and the water much deeper at the edges.

Wind sculpted tree on the shore of Loch Na Keal

The shore side road turns to head inland from here and as the road climbed I turned to look at the breathtaking view and all the islands laid out before me; Eorsa, Inch Kenneth, Samalan, Ulva, Gometra and Little Colonsay. 

Merrily, merrily goes the bark
On a breeze from the northward free
So shoots through the morning sky the lark
Or the swan through the summer sea
The shores of Mull on the eastward lay
And Ulva dark and Colonsay
And all the group of islet gay
That guard famed Staffa round.

Sir Walter Scott, The Lord of the Isles,

Loch Na Keal Facts

OS Map 1:50 000 Sheet 47

Loch a' Chumhainn, Isle of Mull

Loch a' Chumhainn is a small sea loch in a rugged coastline in the northwest of Mull. It is a quiet and beautiful location with some amazing views particularly from Croig beach.

The loch is 2 1/4 miles long with the village of Dervaig lying at its head. It's shores are jagged and full of tiny coves and bays with white sandy beaches and abundant wildlife.

The tiny settlement of Croig is located near the mouth of the loch and can be accessed by a single track road from the main Tobermory to Calgary route. At Croig you will find an old stone pier loaded with creels and other fishing paraphernalia and one or two houses overlooking the water. The shoresides here are rocky and flat, rising on the opposite bank to form a low lying headland. A beautiful old fishing boat lays abandoned and decaying just inland from the pier; no longer a safe platform for fishing she is however still beautiful in my eyes and a great bonus for a photographer!

Derelict boat on the shores of Loch a'Chumhainn

Being a sea loch the water retreats at low tide to reveal a blanket of seaweed along its shores; a perfect feeding ground for wading birds. Curlews and oyster catches roamed the tideline filling the quiet winter air with their shrill cries.

At the head of the tiny inlet upon which Croig sits is a five bar gate and a path which leads around the loch to Croig beach on the far side. If you climb the low headland here the views along the coast and Loch a Chumhainn are amazing.

View from the headland across Croig beach

The islands just offshore are a favourite haunt for seals and as we stood watching we could see several hauled out on the rocks making the most of the weak winter sunshine.

It is possible to walk all around the headlands here discovering tiny coves and clean white stretches of sand. It is the perfect combination of peace and natural charm.

One of the tiny bays looking back towards Loch a'Chamhainn

This area is a wildlife haven and is home to otters and many seashore birds including Red breasted Mergansers, Goosanders, curlew, oyster catchers and snipe.

Dervaig at the head of the loch is a much larger village with a wonderful outlook over the water. This village dates back to the Vikings; and Dervaig itself means "good inlet" in old Norse. The most prominent feature is Kilmore church which looks out over the loch shores. Despite appearances this white building is not that old having been built in 1905, but it is unusual with its pencil tower and well worth a visit.

Loch a'Chumhainn facts

OS sheet 1:50 000 sheet 47
Loch a'Chumhainn is 2 1/4 miles long and is very narrow in places.