Wednesday, 8 January 2014

Loch Torridon and Upper Loch Torridon

The beauty of the Scottish Highlands especially for a photographer is that you can visit the same place time after time and it will always look different. No matter what the season or the weather conditions the light and the way it embraces the landscape is the principal factor that ensures each visit is a unique experience.

I first came across Loch Torridon a couple of winters ago when I was visiting Applecross. Snow laid heavy on the land as I made my journey along the coast road. The bright white covering helped define the edges of the loch and softened the usually stark monolithic peaks which surround it. The days then were still and bright and unbelievably cold but they were also inspiring and life affirming. Standing at the viewpoint on the A896 looking out over the vast expanse of Upper Loch Torridon and drinking in the amazing view it felt good to be alive.

View across Upper Loch Torridon

I found myself back on the shores of Loch Torridon just over a year later, this time in the summer when the landscape was greener and softer but no less dramatic. I had chosen to stay in the little village of Arrina (or Arinacrinachd as it is sometimes called) on the western shore between Fearnbeg and Kenmore. My home for the duration of my stay was the Old Post Office; a  traditional building with dormer windows and a stunning view over the loch. As its name suggests the building once served as the post office and shop for the whole area; a role it maintained until the 1950's when the whole crofting way of life began to decline and the coastal villages were largely abandoned. It wasn't until the new coast road was built in the 1970's that this process was reversed.

The name Arinacrinachd comes from the Gaelic and means "The Shieling of the Picts". A shieling is a summer pasture and the Picts were a late Iron Age and Early Medieval Celtic people. At the far side of the hill behind the village we found an ancient standing stone, a mysterious relic from times long past, it stood alone and uncluttered in a grassy field surrounded by sheep.

View from the Old Post Office towards Loch Torridon













Looking across the fields towards the loch





















Sunset over Loch Torridon




















The village of Torridon lies at the head of Upper Loch Torridon. It is dwarfed by the towering peaks of Liathach, Beinn Alligin and Beinn Eighe all of which are over 3000 feet high and are composed of some of the oldest rocks found anywhere in Britain. In summer Torridon is a popular place with walkers and although it can never be described as busy by southern standards it definitely feels less remote at this time of year. If you are interested in the areas wildlife it is worth checking out the Torridon Countryside Centre which stands at the foot of Glen Torridon. We also took time out for refreshments in the Torridon Stores and Cafe which was quite busy but worth the stop.

This year I was back in Torridon again; another winter visit but only a scattering of snow this time. Despite the frequent wet weather this is my favourite time of year by the loch. A sense of  peace pervades and the remoteness feels more intense. It is always possible to feel alone here in this vast expanse of wilderness,but never lonely as there is always so much to see; divers on the loch, deer on the mountains and always a great photographic opportunity just around the corner.


















Loch Torridon Facts

OS Explorer Map 428
Loch Torridon is around 15 miles long and was formed by glaciation.
There are several islands within the loch which are:
            in Upper Loch Torridon: Eilean à Chaoil, Eilean Cnapach, both of which are tidal.
            in outer Loch Torridon: Eilean Mòr, Eilean Tioram, Sgeir Ghlas, Sgeir na Trian.

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