Gair Loch (Loch Gairloch), Wester Ross

I had never heard of Dry Island before this winter despite having visited the Gair Loch area several times over the last 5 years. It is situated just outside Badachro and is a rare example of an old fishing and curing station which once played an important part in the fishing history of the loch. Connected to the mainland by a long wooden causeway which floats at high tide the island is a tranquil spot owned by the McWhinney family who run holiday cottages and shell fish safaris from its shores.

Dry Island

Dry Island is in fact only an island at high tide; at low water it is joined to the mainland by a sea of mud. It is accessible at all times by a long wooden floating causeway which links the island to the mainland. This rocky outcrop sits in an enviable location in Badachro Bay, its steeps sides rising up from the sheltered waters. The boulder strewn shoreline is covered in ochre coloured seaweed and attracts herons and cormorants who come to fish in the shallows.

Badachro Bay

There are several small rocky islands in this part of Gair Loch but only one other, Eilean Horrisdale is inhabited.

View from one of the self catering cottages on Dry Island

Gair Loch comes from the Gaelic meaning the short loch; at roughly 6 miles long and 1.5 miles wide it flows into the Little Minch. At the heart of the loch is the village which takes its name. Gairloch has a range of small shops, a really interesting tearoom and bookshop that is especially appealing if you love the great outdoors, a heritage museum and some lovely sandy beaches.

Harbour Porpoise in Gair Loch

The harbour at Charleston is situated a little way out from the main village but is well worth a visit. In the summer the quayside is alive with visitors who flock here to take one of the many boat trips available on the loch. Due to the warming waters of the gulf stream the area is a haven for wildlife and the trips offer the opportunity to see whales, dolphins, otters, and harbour porpoises as well as many species of birds.

In the woods behind the harbour lie the Flowerdale waterfalls which can be reached by a lovely walk along the river. They are probably best viewed after heavy rain but the walk is very scenic whatever the weather.

Rua Reidh Lighthouse

From Gairloch the road runs north though the tiny villages of Strath, North Erradale, and Melvaig until it reaches the lighthouse at the end of the peninsular. This road is one of the so called "Destitution Roads" which are faily common in the area. They were built and part funded by a scheme set up to help ease poverty caused by the potato famine  in the 19th century.

At the end of the road is the Rua Reidh lighthouse which is reached by a private track. We drove along this following advice in a local tourist guide and followed a route that gave some of the best coastal views in Wester Ross.
Since writing this I have received a rather terse email from the owners asking me to remove all references to access by car and would like to make it clear that access is from Melvaig by foot only. There are many references in many guides to a visitors centre but these should now be ignored as it no longer exists. See wikipedia for more

Gair Loch facts

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Gairloch has its own boat club with an active sailing scene

Loch Reraig, Wester Ross

Loch is really a grand name for this little indent at the edge of Loch Carron, for large it is not. However what it lacks in volume it more than makes up for visually. From the head of the loch it is possible to look out over the isles of Skye, Scalpay and Rassay which form a magnificent backdrop to the still waters within.

Ardaneaskan and the end of the road

Wooded banks stretch down to the waters edge and there are some lovely walks over the surrounding hills. At low water the tide retreats to reveal a large expanse of rock and dark sand.

To access the loch we traveled the single track road running along the edge of Loch Carron and parked in the shoreside village of Ardaneaskan. This linear settlement is best known for its tiny crofting museum which comprises a single room in an old stone building. The road peters out just past the museum where a small carpark can be found on the left. From here a track heads off downhill towards the loch skirting the edge of the pine woodland.

Looking out towards Skye

At the head of the loch we came across the clear, cool waters of Reraig Burn running across marshy ground before tumbling over rocks and boulders to get to the sea beyond. As with many places in the Highlands we had the whole loch to ourselves and the peace and quiet was fabulous.

Loch Reraig Facts

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At the end of the road is the Ardaneaskan Museum; probably one of the smallest in the country it contains items which formed part of a crofters everyday life.

Loch Kishorn, Wester Ross

Winter is one of my favourite times to be in Scotland. With a covering of snow and constantly changing light it is a rich environment for a photographer and one that I am happy to explore on a regular basis.

Loch Kishorn is situated in one of my favourite parts of the West Coast on the edge of the Applecross peninsular. The loch looks across some of the most wild and rugged landscapes on this part of the coast, but it does not feel barren or isolated.

Loch Kishorn at sunrise

There are three small settlements strung out along the eastern shore of the loch. Collectively know as Kishorn. they are in fact the villages of Sanachan, Ardarroch  and Achintraid. Sanachan lies at the head of the loch on the main road and contains all the amenities incluiding a shop and post office and a small chapel. Ardarroch and Achintraid lie further off the main road and are much quieter; they also have the best views looking out over the Corbetts of Sgurr a' Chaorachain and Beinn Bhàn and the pass of the Bealach na Ba.

View over Loch Kishorn from the Bealach na Ba

If you only do one thing on a trip to this area it should be to take the Bealach na Ba, the ancient drovers route to Applecross also known as the pass of the cattle. This breathtaking single track road has hairpin bends and 1 in 4 slopes and boasts the greatest ascent of any road climb in the UK, rising from sea level to 626 metres. The assent is both hair raising and awe inspiring at any time of the year but in the snow it is even more spectacular and the views looking back over loch Kishorn are stunning.

The Garra Islands at the mouth of Loch Kishorn

The eastern slopes of the loch are softened by large areas of forest with paths and trails running in all directions. There is a lovely walk out to the mouth of the loch giving views over the Garra Islands which mark the entrance; the largest if which is Kishorn Island.

Aquaculture is an important industry in this part of the Highlands and as you walk out of Achintraid towards the sea you pass several large fish farms producing large quantities of Atlantic Salmon. The villages link with the sea and seafood is further illustrated by the award winning
Kishorn Seafood bar which is situated on the main road near the head of the loch.

Achintraid

Loch Kishorn is fed by the Kishorn river which flows down from the north and tumbles over a boulder strew riverbed into the loch. Cross the river and follow the road a little way and the remains of the Kishorn Yard, a fabrication plant for oil platforms can be seen.. The yard operated from 1975 to 1987 and at its peak employed over 3,000 people housed in temporary accommodation on site and in two ships in the loch. It is hard to imagine this tranquil place having such large scale industry at its heart for much of the evidence has now vanished to be reclaimed once again by the wild.

Looking across the Loch from Achintraid

Loch Kishorn facts

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Loch Kishorn is approximately 4 miles long from the head of the estuary to the sea and 1 mile wide. 

It has a maximum depth of 61 meters and is actually a fjord.

Loch Ewe, Wester Ross.

Wild, rugged, romantic and steeped in history Loch Ewe is one of my favourite places along the coast of Wester Ross. The loch fans out like two petals of a flower around the Isle of Ewe. I have been here several times and am always in awe of the area's natural beauty; steep wooded banks give way to rocky moorland and sheltered sandy coves. Tranquil villages dot the loch edges and everywhere you look wildlife is abundant. I have visited the loch several times with my camera and love the diverse weather and light which help make each visit a unique experience.

Loch Ewe from Firemore beach

At the head of the loch lies Poolewe; a little village that has grown up around the shore and either side of the River Ewe which flows into the loch under an old stone road bridge. In the winter the river is a turbulent water rushing and tumbling over rocks and boulders before entering the calmer waters of the loch. There is a lovely trail along the rivers edge to Loch Kernsary which is well worth following for its scenery and wildlife.

Back in the picturesque village of Poolewe it is hard to believe that this tranquil settlement was once a bustling port serving the Hebridean Islands as well as a centre for salmon fishing. Today the ships have all gone but the river is still sort out by fishermen.

River Ewe running into Loch Ewe

Among the traditional white stone cottages at the start of the Inverasdale road you will find the Bridge Cottage tearoom and gallery which offers a delicious selection of cakes and savories good enough to tempt any traveler.The Inverasdale road is a single track route which runs the length of the peninsular to the coast at Cove where there are paths and a viewpoint looking out over the entrance to Loch Ewe.

Sheep on Firemore beach

This is a scenic route passing through the hamlets of Naast, Midtown and Inverasdale with plenty of photographic opportunities; one of my favourite being the red sands of Firemore beach.

The road finally reaches the coast at the cliff top. This is a dramatic place with some rugged coastal scenery made more atmospheric by the remnants of second world war gun stations dotted along the clifftops. Standing here there are dramatic views along Loch Ewe to the mountains beyond  and across the sea to the Hebridean Islands. This is a truly wild and magnificent coastline made all the more spectacular on our visit by an approaching storm!

The view from Cove looking back along Loch Ewe

Looking out to sea at the approaching storm

Memorial to the Atlantic Convoys

In memory of the areas war connections is a stone memorial to the Atlantic Conveys which departed Loch Ewe for Russia. The North Atlantic Fleet sailed from 1941 to 1945 from the UK to North Russian ports of Murmansk and Archangel to aid Russian Allies. Given the title‘the Suicide Missions’ by many who sailed on them they were some of the worst journeys of the second world war. Many ships were lost to German u-boats and bombing raids and over 3,000 men perished in the icy waters of the North Atlantic, their bodies never recovered.

There were a total of 78 convoys to Russia during the war 19 of which started from Loch Ewe. At its busiest 200 000 tons of shipping used the loch on a daily basis and stories say that it was possible to cross on foot from one side to the other across the decks of the ships!

An Arctic Convoy museum is planned for Loch Ewe sometime in the future but in the meantime more information about the Loch's war time history can be found on the museum's website

Across the loch from Cove lies Aultbea; a tranquil settlement strung out along the shore. This is a community of contrasts. At one end of the village is a reminder of the areas war time connections; a NATO fueling depot whilst at the other is a secluded bay with views out over the Torridon mountains. It was here that we stood soaking up the silence whilst watching an otter swam across the tranquil waters.

Loch Ewe and the Isle of Ewe from Altbea

The viewpoint at Altbea

Loch Ewe Facts

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Loch Ewe is approximately 10 miles long
Loch Ewe and its shores are ideal places to explore by canoe. Guided paddles are available from local firm Ewe Canoe
Situated on the northern shore near Poolewe lies Inverewe Gardens; a world renowned tropical garden.
Sited on Drumchork Estate in Wester Ross the Loch Ewe Distillery is the smallest distillery in Scotland.

Loch Thurnaig, Wester Ross.

I found this poem whilst rooting around on the bookshelves of my holiday cottage on Dry Island. It comes from a book about the area published in 1886 "Gairoch, its records, traditions, inhabitants and natural history" by John H Dixon and makes fascinating reading.

The poem about Tornaig and the area around Loch Thurnaig was written by Alexander Cameron in the 1883. Known as the Tornaig bard he was a native of Inverasdale and manager of a farm at Tournaig. Although written 120 years ago the words still describe the area beautifully.

Tournaig! thou home beloved by me

with rich green crop and sloping lea

with fruitful fields and white fleeced sheep

dotting afar each breezy steep

I ne'er can cease my praise of thee

here hill and strath and briny sea

there streams from which the mountains glide

where pearls abound ad otters hide

High is thy shore against the storm

yet lined with sheltered coves and warm

while shell fish fill each rocky hole

where never oceans waves can roll

Loch Thurnaig from the viewpoint on the A832

Loch Thurnaig is a small loch leading off of Loch Ewe. It has a rocky jagged shoreline which in places is devoid of any vegetation. It is easy to imagine the otters of Cameron's poem exploring these shores and playing in the waters. A large swath of low lying pasture belonging to the farm Cameron managed can be seen in the photograph. This lush swath of grassland stands out as an island of green in a sea of brown moorland. There are very few trees or bushes anywhere along the loch edge giving a wilderness feel to the surroundings.

On the south side of the loch is a small headland which contains the heather covered remains of a dun; an ancient fort or Atlantic roundhouse.

Standing at the viewpoint on the A832 it is possible to look out over the whole of the loch and get a real sense of the geography of the area. Despite being on a main road the land is peaceful, no car noise or urban bustle here just the sound of the wind sweeping off the loch and whistling around the mountains. This is wild Scotland at its best; the impressive Torriden mountains forming a stunning backdrop to the view.

Blyth Estuary, Suffolk.

Lying between the seaside resorts of Southwold and Walberswick the entrance to the Blyth Estuary seems a little out of place with its fashionable surroundings. Tall walls of steel form an unnatural liner to each side; not a promising start for an estuary renowned for its wildlife and natural habitats.

Southwold Harbour

However once past the harbour entrance the character returns and the river becomes much more natural. On the northen bank lies Southwold harbour; a traditional mass of black fishing huts and fishing boats moored to rickerty looking wooden jetties. This is very much a working harbour with a large boatyard right at its centre and fishing paraphernalia everywhere you look.

Southwold harbour from the opposite bank

Southwold Harbour is somewhere I know well, we ran a classic bicycle hire business one summer from a black shed along its shore. It is a fascinating place and there is something for everyone. Boat building sits alongside furniture making, fish kiosks, a cafe and chandlery, while along the waterfront fishing boats jostle for space with sailing boats and motor cruisers. Artists love the diversity and you will often find someone sitting behind an easel on the shore creating wonderful order from the chaos.

The Sole Bay fish company is probably the best known business along this shore, selling locally caught fish from their beautifully turned out blackshore shed. The restaurant is well worth a visit as is Mrs T's fish and chips next door  for possibly the best take away meal in the town.

Southwold and Walberwick Ferry  at sunset

Connecting Southwold Harbour with Walberswick on the opposite bank is a small rowing ferry which runs from March until the end of October. Out of season there is a lovely riverside path which crosses the Blyth over the Bailey Bridge; a sturdy metal structure found just past the Harbour Inn.

Walberswick is a lovely old fashioned seaside village oozing plenty of old world charm. It's beauty has inspired many artists over the years including Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Philip Wilson Steer and it is easy to see why. The river on this side is less chaotic with Southwold town and lighthouse a prominent backdrop to the more tranquil riverside activity. I particularly love the quirky black timber houses along the shore between the ferry and the beach and have always imagined how wonderful the view from some of the upstairs windows must be.

Some of my favourite buildings at Walberswick

Walberswick is a great place for children of all ages. A trip here would not be complete without fishing for crabs from one of the little wooden bridges along the Dunwich river; the little tributary that flows parallel to the coast.  The village used to be renowned for its annual crabbing championships which ran every August until 2011, when sadly the event became a victim of its own success growing too large for the village to handle.

Buss Creek is one of two small tributaries on the estuary and joins the main waterway just past the Bailey Bridge. The name is said to come from the Dutch sailing craft known as busses which plied these coastal waters a century ago when herring fishing was at its peak.

The Bailey Bridge connecting Southwold and Walberswick

From the Bailey Bridge the estuary begins to widen out and eventually becomes a vast expanse of mudflats and reedbeds around Bulcamp and Angel Marshes.  It is possible to walk from the Walberswick Nature Reserve to Blythburgh at the head of the estuary, passing through a range of habitats including oak woodland and vast areas of reedbed. There is a good vantage point from a bird hide half way along this path where views right across the estuary are possible. Winter is one of the best times to visit especially at low tide when the estuary is alive with flocks of teal, wigeon and pintail as well as greylags, pink footed and barnacle geese. When I visited I was delighted to see one of my favourite birds the marsh harrier majestically soaring over the reedbeds.

Holy Trinity, Blythburgh

Blythburgh, at the head of the estuary is somewhere you could almost miss if driving up the A12. It is dissected by this busy holiday route a fact that has done nothing to enhance the area. However the village itself with its interesting collection of architecture and its awe inspiring church is well worth a visit.

There has been a church in Blythburgh for over 1000 years. Holy Trinity; or the Cathedral of the Marshes, is a magnificent building with many equally magnificent stories attached to it. Inside it is just as grand and quite humbling to behold.

Blyth Estuary Facts

The Blyth estuary has just over 6 miles of tidal water. 

In this short distance it has a large and renowned boatyard; Harbour Marine Services and a sailing club

The whole area is prone to flooding causing problems for many homes and businesses along the estuary; the most recent flood being the tidal surge this December when the A12 was under water and  closed for some time. 

Ore / Alde and Butley River, Suffolk.

Shingle Street; one of my favourite places on the Suffolk Coast, lies at the mouth of the Ore / Alde Estuary. It is a wild and mysterious place; sometimes lonely, often windswept, but always beautiful and it has been a great source of inspiration for me as a photographer.

Shingle Street and the mouth of the Ore

The Ore is the only bar built estuary in the UK with a shingle bar. It has been expanding at a fairly rapid rate for several hundred years pushing the mouth of the estuary progressively south-westwards. The transient nature of the place becomes obvious if you visit more than once for the beach changes constantly; the sea eroding and depositing large mounds of shingle all the time. These shifting mounds are a constant reminder of the power of the ocean and make Shingle Street a fascinating place to visit.

The shell line on the beach

The dwellings on the edge of the beach are all that remain of a once thriving fishing village; a scattering of houses, a row of white coastguard cottages, many of which are now holiday homes, and a Martello tower looking east to the sea beyond. The beach is designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest and supports a large number of flowering plants including sea pea, yellow horned poppy, sea campion, vipers bugloss, sea kale and red valerian. In early summer these plants transform the foreshore from a barren wasteland to a vibrant, thriving sea of colour. Crossing the beach in front of the coastguard cottages is a curious line of bleached white shells arranged in an ongoing pattern of swirls and concentric circles. This surprising piece of beach art has been here for many years, left by two friends for future visitors to tweak and rearrange. Transient like the beach upon which it lays it is a mysterious and fitting addition to this wild and wonderful place.

Halfway along the Ore towards Aldeburgh is Havergate Island, Suffolk's only island and an RSPB reserve. It is an important breeding site for Avocet although there are many other interesting species to be seen, including on my visit, shore larks and a barn owl. As well as birds the island is also known for its hares, which are incredibly tame, easy to approach and delightful to watch. Havergate Island is only accessible by RSPB boat which departs from Orford Quay.

The RSPB launch arrives at havergate Island

The Butley River runs into the Ore just along from Havergate Island. This tiny creek almost dries out at low tide and is a haven for wildlife. A footpath runs the length of the creek and at its head a ferry connects both banks allowing access to Orford from the Shingle Street path. This route forms part of the Suffolk Coast and Heaths long distance path.

Butley Creek is a tranquil place; a flat land made up of saltmarsh, mud and grazing meadows. Avocets are a common sight seeking shelter here in the winter and breeding at nearby

The flatlands of Butley Creek

Boyton marshes which is another RSPB reserve. I love walking these river walls; they are a delightful escape from the hubbub of modern life. Beautiful in their uniformity they are a tonic for the soul.

Orford Quay

Orford is my favourite village on the estuary. This once grand and important Norman town is now a peaceful holiday backwater with plenty of old English charm. A polygonal keep which is all that remains of Henry II’s original castle stands proudly on a hill overlooking the village rivaled in grandeur only by the church which was built around the same time as a chapel for the new castle.

For the gastronome Orford has plenty to recommend it with a mouthwatering array of food on offer. In the village square the award winning bakery sells traditional products as well as doubling as a convivial café whilst further along the street the village store sells everything from fresh fruit and veg to locally made pates. Tucked away at the back of the square is Richardsons Smokehouse, occupying a deliciously traditional wooden shack surrounded by neat piles of firewood. Their produce ranges from bacon to fish but my favourite has to be the hot smoked ham joints glazed with sugar and black treacle. Pinneys restaurant is probably Orfords best known eatery and is a mecca for seafood enthusiasts. Renowned for its oysters and other locally caught fish it is well worth a visit.

Orford Castle

Nine hundred years ago Orford was a vibrant sea port and trading post but the silting of the river Ore and subsequent longshore drift meant that by the 13th Centuary Orford’s fortunes began to dwindle. The shingle spit which now forms Orfordness was the reason for the towns decline. It is still growing at a rate of 18 metres per year and has virtually cut Orford off from the sea. Orford’s waterfront may no longer be a thriving port but it is a hive of activity with a thriving tourist business.  Several trip boats operate from the Quay proving passage to the wilderness of Orfordness with its Second World War heritage.

Just past Orford at Pigpail Sluice the Ore becomes the Alde and continues to Aldeburgh and Snape. Approaching Slaughden Quay one of the first notable landmarks is the Martello Tower on the seaward side just before the Yacht Club. This is one of 29 such towers which were built between Aldeburgh and St Osyth Stone between 1808 and 1812 to protect the Essex and Suffolk coastlines.

From Slaughden it is only a short walk into the fashionable seaside resort of Aldeburgh. Despite being a mecca for tourists Aldeburgh has managed to retain its old world charm and its connections with the sea. At Slaughden there are boatyards and sailing clubs whilst further along the front fishing boats still haul out onto the beach bringing their fresh catch to sell from the black shore side fishing shacks. In between is a high street full of shops, restaurants, cafes and art galleries, the lifeboat station and some notable old buildings. It is easy to while away a few hours here and I frequently do!

A barge on the river at Iken

Beyond Slaughden the river turns sharply inland and heads towards Iken and Snape. As you travel further away from the coast the river becomes more tranquil and the wildlife abundant. At Iken the little thatched church of St Botolph stands overlooking the surrounding mudflats and marshland. It is possible to anchor just below Iken Church and

Marshes and reedbeds along the Alde estuary

follow a footpath along the river to Snape Maltings.

At low tide the Alde is reduced to a narrow channel this far inland; the mudflats on eiher side a haven for bird life. Marsh Harriers are a common site as are curlew, godwits, avocet and oystercatchers.

Snape Maltings

Snape Maltings at the head of the navigation has become a popular tourist attraction. Here you will find food, furniture and clothes shops, art galleries and cafes all siting in the old mill buildings. Snape is also home to Aldeburgh music which celebrates the life and works of Aldeburgh composer Benjamin Britten.

Alde and Ore facts

This estuary is not typical in that it is actually 3 separate rivers.

The tidal length from Snape Maltings to the sea is 15 miles.

There is a long history of wildfowling on the estuary more information can be found from the Alde and Ore Wildfowlers Association

Orfordness,at 10miles long is the longest shingle spit in Europe. It is currently owner by the National Trust.

The Orwell Estuary, Suffolk.

When I was young I spent may happy hours with my nose in a book reading Arthur Ransome's Swallow and Amazons stories. One of my favourites was "We didn't mean to go to sea"; a happy little adventure which begins from the tiny hamlet of Pin Mill on the River Orwell. For those that aren't familiar with this Ransome tale ( and I have discovered there are many) the story begins when the Walker children set off for some sailing on the Orwell and accidentally find themselves drifting out to sea alone. Needless to say Ransome makes sure the children make it all the way to Holland without serious mishap and have a fabulous adventure along the way.

The Orwell estuary in this story is the one that I grew up with and as a result felt that I got to know it before I even visited. It is funny that it should now play such a prominent part in my life as a base for my holiday business and a rich source of material for my photography.

The Orwell is an estuary full of contrasts. Its tidal waters run 8 miles from the county town of Ipswich to the port  Felixstowe on the North Sea coast. In between these two hubs of industry lie some beautiful and tranquil shorelines edged in places with ancient oak woodlands and home to many species of flora and fauna. It is a busy waterway with lots of traffic from tiny pleasure craft to huge cargo vessels but despite this it remains relatively unspoiled and is a joy to explore.

Ipswich waterfront and marina

Ipswich lies at the head of the estuary and has always been somewhere I have been completely indifferent to. I neither loved it nor hated it and really just found it rather bland. However since getting to know the estuary a bit better I have found the waterfront to be fascinating and a delightful place to while away a few hours. The old Customs House takes centre stage and is surrounded by the original flour mills and maltings which have been converted into shops, hotels and restaurants. These all look out over a marina full of boats. mainly personal pleasure craft but these are often joined by Thames barges which run river trips from the waterfront along the Orwell.

The huge piers supporting the Orwell Bridge

One of the most notable features of this estuary is the Orwell Bridge. This imposing concrete structure was opened to traffic in 1982 and at the time was considered remarkable because it contained the longest pre stressed concrete span in use. Standing underneath the bridge and looking up to the underside of the structure 43 meters above (the beck of a boat affords the best vantage point ) it is easy to see why this structure is so impressive.

As you leave the bridge behind and head toward the sea the river gets more wild and the scenery more natural. My favourite place along this stretch of the estuary is the one immortalised by Arthur Ransome in the books I read as a child. Pin Mill was the base for two of Ransome's East Coast stories. It is a delightful hamlet nestling on the waters edge between areas of ancient oak woodland. It has a quaint, old world feel about it and you can imagine that nothing much has changed here since Ransome wrote his stories almost a century ago. Alma cottage is exactly as it appears in the books as are the Butt and Oyster, Harry Kings boatyard and the little rill filled of water that follows the edge of the hard allowing access to the river for dinghies at low tide.

The Butt and Oyster Inn looks out over the waterfront

I love Pin Mill, not just for its old world charm but because it now provides a mooring for our Dutch barge holiday business. I never once dreamed, when I was engrossed in Ransome's stories as a kid, that my life would end up so heavily entwined with the very place he wrote about in his tales of adventure.
Pin Mill is also renowned for its barges, not Dutch ones like mine, but solid back Thames barges which used to unload their cargoes here when trade on the Orwell was at its peak. The hamlets connection with these graceful old ladies of the sea is strong and Pin Mill plays host to the annual barge, smack and working boat race every summer.

Pin Mill Smack race

These two races are amongst my favourite events to capture with the camera and they always make a great spectacle.
One of the best ways to see the river is by following the long distance footpath; "the Stour / Orwell walk". 
This runs the length of the estuary following both banks and is a great way to see the landscape, the river and all the wildlife that the area is renowned for.
Beyond Pin Mill the river begins to widen before rounding a bend and approaching the busy container port of Felixstowe. Just before this is Levington Marina and Levington Creek; the only little tributary in the estuary.

Felixstowe Docks across the saltmarsh

Felixstowe Docks are a bit of an enigma. The largest container terminal in the UK sits side by side with the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the Landguard Point nature reserve and Trimly Marshes a Suffolk Wildlife Trust reserve. For me this illustrates beautifully the fragility of the estuary. The fact that all these places can exist successfully within a stones throw of each other is a wonder in itself.
The docks are a fascinating place to sit and watch. There is a view point on Landguard Peninsular adjacent to the terminal or opposite on the Shotley Peninsular.

Orwell Facts

The Orwell has 8 miles of tidal waters from Ipswich to the sea.

There are 5 marinas and 3 sailing clubs on the estuary

The author Eric Blair loved this river so much that he took its name to become George Orwell.

The shingle spit at Landguard Point is one of the most important vegetated shingle areas in the county and supports an amazing 440 different species of flowering plant including the nationally rare Stinking Goosefoot.

The Deben Estuary, Suffolk.

The Deben  Estuary

The Deben Estuary is special to me for a number or reasons. It ignited my passion for the water, reinforced my need for a connection with nature and most importantly was responsible for launching my career as a photographer. I spent 3 happy years living on its shores and in that time I walked its banks on a daily basis, sailed, fished and canoed in its waters and spent many hours behind the lens of my camera photographing it's ever changing scenery. It is a stretch of water that I know intimately and have a huge love for and it therefore seems a fitting place to begin this project.

The Deben Estuary runs from Melton Bridge just outside Woodbridge to the Sea at Felixstowe Ferry. It is a peaceful waterway, popular with sailors, walkers and birdwatchers.

The upper reaches of the Deben at Melton

There is a footpath from the bridge at Melton along the river wall to Woodbridge and further on to Martlesaham Creek. It used to be possible to walk much of the west bank from Woodbridge to the sea, but erosion and rising sea levels mean sadly this is no longer possible.

Melton is the business end of the Deben Estuary with several old barge quays and working boatyards. The quays were once important landings for malt, coal and road materials but today mainly serve the leisure industry. Boatyards still operate here; Skeets and Larkmans at Melton and Robertsons with its barge harbour just beyond Sun Wharf.

Larkmans boatyard

On the opposite bank of the river lies the National Trust site of Sutton Hoo. It was here that King Raedwald, the first King of East Anglia was buried in his 90 foot longship on a hill overlooking the Deben, The discovery of his burial mound full of treasure was one of the most important archaeological discoveries of the 20th Century.  Today Sutton Hoo displays copies of Raedwald’s treasures whilst the original's are exhibited in the British Museum in London.

Woodbridge is the largest settlement on the Deben Estuary and is a pretty market town with a bustling waterfront notable for it's iconic Tidemill.  There has been a mill here since the 12th Century, but the current building dates back to 1793 and is one of only 5 tide mills left in the country and the only one still working. Next to the mill in the old wharf buildings is the Waterfront cafe which makes a great place to stop for a pot of tea and sit for a while to watch the world go by. Behind the cafe is the Tidemill Yacht Harbour, a modern marina and the only one on the Deben.

Woodbridge Tide Mill viewed from the marina

The walk from the Tide mill along the river is lovely. It passes Bass's Dock where you will find a colourful assortment of barges and houseboats and heads out of town along the side of the water meadows where herds of cows graze the flower strewn grasses in the summer. At Kyson point the Deben joins Martlesham Creek; the only navigable creek in the estuary. It is surrounded by woodland and dries out to a trickle at low water but despite this there is still a boatyard to be found at its head.

Waldringfield waterfront 

Waldringfield, a couple of miles further downstream is a busy little village with many connections to the river. There is a working boatyard, a thriving sailing club and and some good riverside walking. I have been here several times to take photographs and have often seen swimmers in the water even in the depths of winter. The Maybush Inn on the river front is a popular spot to watch the world go by whilst the boatyard run river trips from the jetty aboard MV Jahann as well as renting out canoes and kayaks for a small fee.

Saltmarsh and mudflats and the tiny beach at the Rocks

Traveling from Waldringfield downstream the river gets more wild and more beautiful. I have canoed this section several times; the most memorable being early one morning when I was joined by a playful seal splashing around in the shallows.
There is a little area of beach here which is know locally as the rocks. It is a favourite anchorage for sailors but is also home to the Deben shellfish company who specialise in Oysters and Mussels farmed along this stretch of the river.

Further down on the opposite bank is the tiny hamlet of Ramsholt. The round tower church of All Saints stands in a solitary position overlooking the water whilst the Ramsholt Arms; one time ferry house and smugglers inn, is a busy place in the summer.

A misty morning along Ramsholt reaches.

This section of the river is a haven for wildlife with marsh harriers, hen harriers, merlins, avocets, bearded tits and fallow deer amongst my favourite sightings. This is also one of my favourite photography locations and I am always amazed at how many different images it is possible to make from just a short stretch of river. The scenery is constantly changing depending upon the time of day, the state of the tide and the weather conditions. Standing on the bank it is possible to lose yourself in the wild beauty of the estuary; the scenery and the wildlife and I have often found myself pondering my place in this world and the connection I have with it. I have always found Ramsholt a very cathartic place and it is somewhere I still seek out for its ability to make me feel at peace.

Ramsholt river wall

From Ramsholt the estuary gradually widens as it approaches the sea. Here you will find Bawdsey and Felixstowe Ferry; two tiny settlements located on opposite banks but connected by a foot ferry and a shared position at the mouth of the Deben. They feel like two half's of the same village but with completely different characters. The grandeur of Bawdsey with its impressive manor house is in complete contrast to the ramshackle beauty of Felixstowe Ferry with its fishing fleet and bizarre collection of houseboats. Bawdsey is a mecca for watersports enthusiasts whilst Felixstowe Ferry with its abundance of character is popular with artists. I love both places but find the Ferry pricks my curiosity and beckons the photographer within.

The waterfront at the ferry is a mixture of traditional black fishing huts, wooden chalets with an artisan air and a good collection of houseboats; some traditional and some completely unconventional. If you love the weird and wacky I urge you to come and spend a morning soaking up the atmosphere here.

As the Deben prepares to meet the sea the waters get more choppy as they bubble and bounce over the shingle bar at the entrance to the estuary. Keeping watch are two Martello towers one at Felixstowe and one at Bawdsey. These are remnants of Napoleonic times and were built to guard against a constantly feared threat of invasion.

The tidal stretch of the river estuary is now an internationally protected wildlife site and area of outstanding natural beauty. The construction of the river walls which took place hundreds of years ago to protect the surrounding land from rising water levels have allowed the formation of large areas of salt marsh. This habitat is an important environment for migrating birds, waders and wildfowl and is one of Europe’s most important wetland habitats.

Deben Facts

The Estuary has 12 km of tidal water from Melton to the sea.

There are 4 sailing clubs, a rowing club and a waterski club, 7 boatyards and one marina

The estuary is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a RAMAR site

It has over 40% of the saltmarsh in Suffolk and is renowned for its wintering wading and water birds

It has its own association (The River Deben Association) with over 900 members