Shingle Street; one of my favourite places on the Suffolk Coast, lies at the mouth of the Ore / Alde Estuary. It is a wild and mysterious place; sometimes lonely, often windswept, but always beautiful and it has been a great source of inspiration for me as a photographer.
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| Shingle Street and the mouth of the Ore |
The Ore is the only bar built estuary in the UK with a shingle bar. It has been expanding at a fairly rapid rate for several hundred years pushing the mouth of the estuary progressively south-westwards. The transient nature of the place becomes obvious if you visit more than once for the beach changes constantly; the sea eroding and depositing large mounds of shingle all the time. These shifting mounds are a constant reminder of the power of the ocean and make Shingle Street a fascinating place to visit.
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| The shell line on the beach |
The dwellings on the edge of the beach are all that remain of a once thriving fishing village; a scattering of houses, a row of white coastguard cottages, many of which are now holiday homes, and a Martello tower looking east to the sea beyond. The beach is designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest and supports a large number of flowering plants including sea pea, yellow horned poppy, sea campion, vipers bugloss, sea kale and red valerian. In early summer these plants transform the foreshore from a barren wasteland to a vibrant, thriving sea of colour. Crossing the beach in front of the coastguard cottages is a curious line of bleached white shells arranged in an ongoing pattern of swirls and concentric circles. This surprising piece of beach art has been here for many years, left by two friends for future visitors to tweak and rearrange. Transient like the beach upon which it lays it is a mysterious and fitting addition to this wild and wonderful place.
Halfway along the Ore towards Aldeburgh is
Havergate Island, Suffolk's only island and an RSPB reserve. It is an important breeding site for Avocet although there are many other interesting species to be seen, including on my visit, shore larks and a barn owl. As well as birds the island is also known for its hares, which are incredibly tame, easy to approach and delightful to watch. Havergate Island is only accessible by RSPB boat which departs from Orford Quay.
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| The RSPB launch arrives at havergate Island |
The Butley River runs into the Ore just along from Havergate Island. This tiny creek almost dries out at low tide and is a haven for wildlife. A footpath runs the length of the creek and at its head a ferry connects both banks allowing access to Orford from the Shingle Street path. This route forms part of the Suffolk Coast and Heaths long distance path.
Butley Creek is a tranquil place; a flat land made up of saltmarsh, mud and grazing meadows. Avocets are a common sight seeking shelter here in the winter and breeding at nearby
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| The flatlands of Butley Creek |
Boyton marshes which is another RSPB reserve. I love walking these river walls; they are a delightful escape from the hubbub of modern life. Beautiful in their uniformity they are a tonic for the soul.
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| Orford Quay |
Orford is my favourite village on the estuary. This once grand and important Norman town is now a peaceful holiday backwater with plenty of old English charm. A polygonal keep which is all that remains of Henry II’s original castle stands proudly on a hill overlooking the village rivaled in grandeur only by the church which was built around the same time as a chapel for the new castle.
For the gastronome Orford has plenty to recommend it with a mouthwatering array of food on offer. In the village square the award winning bakery sells traditional products as well as doubling as a convivial café whilst further along the street the village store sells everything from fresh fruit and veg to locally made pates. Tucked away at the back of the square is Richardsons Smokehouse, occupying a deliciously traditional wooden shack surrounded by neat piles of firewood. Their produce ranges from bacon to fish but my favourite has to be the hot smoked ham joints glazed with sugar and black treacle. Pinneys restaurant is probably Orfords best known eatery and is a mecca for seafood enthusiasts. Renowned for its oysters and other locally caught fish it is well worth a visit.
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| Orford Castle |
Nine hundred years ago Orford was a vibrant sea port and trading post but the silting of the river Ore and subsequent longshore drift meant that by the 13th Centuary Orford’s fortunes began to dwindle. The shingle spit which now forms Orfordness was the reason for the towns decline. It is still growing at a rate of 18 metres per year and has virtually cut Orford off from the sea. Orford’s waterfront may no longer be a thriving port but it is a hive of activity with a thriving tourist business. Several trip boats operate from the Quay proving passage to the wilderness of Orfordness with its Second World War heritage.
Just past Orford at Pigpail Sluice the Ore becomes the Alde and continues to Aldeburgh and Snape. Approaching Slaughden Quay one of the first notable landmarks is the Martello Tower on the seaward side just before the Yacht Club. This is one of 29 such towers which were built between Aldeburgh and St Osyth Stone between 1808 and 1812 to protect the Essex and Suffolk coastlines.
From Slaughden it is only a short walk into the fashionable seaside resort of Aldeburgh. Despite being a mecca for tourists Aldeburgh has managed to retain its old world charm and its connections with the sea. At Slaughden there are boatyards and sailing clubs whilst further along the front fishing boats still haul out onto the beach bringing their fresh catch to sell from the black shore side fishing shacks. In between is a high street full of shops, restaurants, cafes and art galleries, the lifeboat station and some notable old buildings. It is easy to while away a few hours here and I frequently do!
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| A barge on the river at Iken |
Beyond Slaughden the river turns sharply inland and heads towards Iken and Snape. As you travel further away from the coast the river becomes more tranquil and the wildlife abundant. At Iken the little thatched church of St Botolph stands overlooking the surrounding mudflats and marshland. It is possible to anchor just below Iken Church and
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| Marshes and reedbeds along the Alde estuary |
follow a footpath along the river to Snape Maltings.
At low tide the Alde is reduced to a narrow channel this far inland; the mudflats on eiher side a haven for bird life. Marsh Harriers are a common site as are curlew, godwits, avocet and oystercatchers.
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| Snape Maltings |
Snape Maltings at the head of the navigation has become a popular tourist attraction. Here you will find food, furniture and clothes shops, art galleries and cafes all siting in the old mill buildings. Snape is also home to Aldeburgh music which celebrates the life and works of Aldeburgh composer Benjamin Britten.
Alde and Ore facts
This estuary is not typical in that it is actually 3 separate rivers.
The tidal length from Snape Maltings to the sea is 15 miles.
Orfordness,at 10miles long is the longest shingle spit in Europe. It is currently owner by the National Trust.
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