Wild, rugged, romantic and steeped in history Loch Ewe is one of my favourite places along the coast of Wester Ross. The loch fans out like two petals of a flower around the Isle of Ewe. I have been here several times and am always in awe of the area's natural beauty; steep wooded banks give way to rocky moorland and sheltered sandy coves. Tranquil villages dot the loch edges and everywhere you look wildlife is abundant. I have visited the loch several times with my camera and love the diverse weather and light which help make each visit a unique experience.
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| Loch Ewe from Firemore beach |
At the head of the loch lies Poolewe; a little village that has grown up around the shore and either side of the River Ewe which flows into the loch under an old stone road bridge. In the winter the river is a turbulent water rushing and tumbling over rocks and boulders before entering the calmer waters of the loch. There is a lovely trail along the rivers edge to Loch Kernsary which is well worth following for its scenery and wildlife.
Back in the picturesque village of Poolewe it is hard to believe that this tranquil settlement was once a bustling port serving the Hebridean Islands as well as a centre for salmon fishing. Today the ships have all gone but the river is still sort out by fishermen.
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| River Ewe running into Loch Ewe |
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| Sheep on Firemore beach |
The road finally reaches the coast at the cliff top. This is a dramatic place with some rugged coastal scenery made more atmospheric by the remnants of second world war gun stations dotted along the clifftops. Standing here there are dramatic views along Loch Ewe to the mountains beyond and across the sea to the Hebridean Islands. This is a truly wild and magnificent coastline made all the more spectacular on our visit by an approaching storm!
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| The view from Cove looking back along Loch Ewe |
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| Looking out to sea at the approaching storm |
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| Memorial to the Atlantic Convoys |
In memory of the areas war connections is a stone memorial to the Atlantic Conveys which departed Loch Ewe for Russia. The North Atlantic Fleet sailed from 1941 to 1945 from the UK to North Russian ports of Murmansk and Archangel to aid Russian Allies. Given the title‘the Suicide Missions’ by many who sailed on them they were some of the worst journeys of the second world war. Many ships were lost to German u-boats and bombing raids and over 3,000 men perished in the icy waters of the North Atlantic, their bodies never recovered.
There were a total of 78 convoys to Russia during the war 19 of which started from Loch Ewe. At its busiest 200 000 tons of shipping used the loch on a daily basis and stories say that it was possible to cross on foot from one side to the other across the decks of the ships!
An Arctic Convoy museum is planned for Loch Ewe sometime in the future but in the meantime more information about the Loch's war time history can be found on the museum's website
Across the loch from Cove lies Aultbea; a tranquil settlement strung out along the shore. This is a community of contrasts. At one end of the village is a reminder of the areas war time connections; a NATO fueling depot whilst at the other is a secluded bay with views out over the Torridon mountains. It was here that we stood soaking up the silence whilst watching an otter swam across the tranquil waters.
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| Loch Ewe and the Isle of Ewe from Altbea |
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| The viewpoint at Altbea |
Loch Ewe Facts
OS Explorer Map 434Loch Ewe is approximately 10 miles long
Loch Ewe and its shores are ideal places to explore by canoe. Guided paddles are available from local firm Ewe Canoe
Situated on the northern shore near Poolewe lies Inverewe Gardens; a world renowned tropical garden.
Sited on Drumchork Estate in Wester Ross the Loch Ewe Distillery is the smallest distillery in Scotland.
I think you mean Aultbea. Nice description though :-)
ReplyDeleteThank you Ken, typing was never my strong point! All changed now though :-) I'm glad you liked my description, we found Aultbea delightful.
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