Monday, 30 December 2013

Gair Loch (Loch Gairloch), Wester Ross

I had never heard of Dry Island before this winter despite having visited the Gair Loch area several times over the last 5 years. It is situated just outside Badachro and is a rare example of an old fishing and curing station which once played an important part in the fishing history of the loch. Connected to the mainland by a long wooden causeway which floats at high tide the island is a tranquil spot owned by the McWhinney family who run holiday cottages and shell fish safaris from its shores.

Dry Island














Dry Island is in fact only an island at high tide; at low water it is joined to the mainland by a sea of mud. It is accessible at all times by a long wooden floating causeway which links the island to the mainland. This rocky outcrop sits in an enviable location in Badachro Bay, its steeps sides rising up from the sheltered waters. The boulder strewn shoreline is covered in ochre coloured seaweed and attracts herons and cormorants who come to fish in the shallows.

Badachro Bay














There are several small rocky islands in this part of Gair Loch but only one other, Eilean Horrisdale is inhabited.

View from one of the self catering cottages on Dry Island






















Gair Loch comes from the Gaelic meaning the short loch; at roughly 6 miles long and 1.5 miles wide it flows into the Little Minch. At the heart of the loch is the village which takes its name. Gairloch has a range of small shops, a really interesting tearoom and bookshop that is especially appealing if you love the great outdoors, a heritage museum and some lovely sandy beaches.

Harbour Porpoise in Gair Loch
The harbour at Charleston is situated a little way out from the main village but is well worth a visit. In the summer the quayside is alive with visitors who flock here to take one of the many boat trips available on the loch. Due to the warming waters of the gulf stream the area is a haven for wildlife and the trips offer the opportunity to see whales, dolphins, otters, and harbour porpoises as well as many species of birds.

In the woods behind the harbour lie the Flowerdale waterfalls which can be reached by a lovely walk along the river. They are probably best viewed after heavy rain but the walk is very scenic whatever the weather.

Rua Reidh Lighthouse
From Gairloch the road runs north though the tiny villages of Strath, North Erradale, and Melvaig until it reaches the lighthouse at the end of the peninsular. This road is one of the so called "Destitution Roads" which are faily common in the area. They were built and part funded by a scheme set up to help ease poverty caused by the potato famine  in the 19th century.

At the end of the road is the Rua Reidh lighthouse which is reached by a private track. We drove along this following advice in a local tourist guide and followed a route that gave some of the best coastal views in Wester Ross.
Since writing this I have received a rather terse email from the owners asking me to remove all references to access by car and would like to make it clear that access is from Melvaig by foot only. There are many references in many guides to a visitors centre but these should now be ignored as it no longer exists. See wikipedia for more






















Gair Loch facts

OS Explorer Map 434
Gairloch has its own boat club with an active sailing scene

2 comments:

  1. I was lucky enough to live in Gairloch in the eighties - a beautiful place full of real characters! I'm sorry to read of the 'new owners' of the lighthouse who have shut the road to cars; I wonder who they are and their reasons for doing so? I found your references to Gair Loch a bit misleading, as nowhere do you see it written as such. It is easily confused with the Gare Loch (on the Clyde.) Gearr Loch is the original Gaelic name of the sea loch. Super photos, well done.

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    1. Thank you very much for your comments and kind words about my photography. I am very envious of your time in Gairloch and can imagine it is an amazing place to live - I wonder if it has changed much in the last 30 years?
      I agree with your comments about the lighthouse and feel that the chance to experience this remote but beautiful spot has now been removed from all but the most active (it is a long walk from Melvaig) I believe the lighthouse now offers holiday accommodation and a venue for weddings and find it sad that a truly beautiful spot is now out of bounds to all but a few paying guests.

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