Blyth Estuary, Suffolk.

Lying between the seaside resorts of Southwold and Walberswick the entrance to the Blyth Estuary seems a little out of place with its fashionable surroundings. Tall walls of steel form an unnatural liner to each side; not a promising start for an estuary renowned for its wildlife and natural habitats.

Southwold Harbour

However once past the harbour entrance the character returns and the river becomes much more natural. On the northen bank lies Southwold harbour; a traditional mass of black fishing huts and fishing boats moored to rickerty looking wooden jetties. This is very much a working harbour with a large boatyard right at its centre and fishing paraphernalia everywhere you look.

Southwold harbour from the opposite bank

Southwold Harbour is somewhere I know well, we ran a classic bicycle hire business one summer from a black shed along its shore. It is a fascinating place and there is something for everyone. Boat building sits alongside furniture making, fish kiosks, a cafe and chandlery, while along the waterfront fishing boats jostle for space with sailing boats and motor cruisers. Artists love the diversity and you will often find someone sitting behind an easel on the shore creating wonderful order from the chaos.

The Sole Bay fish company is probably the best known business along this shore, selling locally caught fish from their beautifully turned out blackshore shed. The restaurant is well worth a visit as is Mrs T's fish and chips next door  for possibly the best take away meal in the town.

Southwold and Walberwick Ferry  at sunset

Connecting Southwold Harbour with Walberswick on the opposite bank is a small rowing ferry which runs from March until the end of October. Out of season there is a lovely riverside path which crosses the Blyth over the Bailey Bridge; a sturdy metal structure found just past the Harbour Inn.

Walberswick is a lovely old fashioned seaside village oozing plenty of old world charm. It's beauty has inspired many artists over the years including Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Philip Wilson Steer and it is easy to see why. The river on this side is less chaotic with Southwold town and lighthouse a prominent backdrop to the more tranquil riverside activity. I particularly love the quirky black timber houses along the shore between the ferry and the beach and have always imagined how wonderful the view from some of the upstairs windows must be.

Some of my favourite buildings at Walberswick

Walberswick is a great place for children of all ages. A trip here would not be complete without fishing for crabs from one of the little wooden bridges along the Dunwich river; the little tributary that flows parallel to the coast.  The village used to be renowned for its annual crabbing championships which ran every August until 2011, when sadly the event became a victim of its own success growing too large for the village to handle.

Buss Creek is one of two small tributaries on the estuary and joins the main waterway just past the Bailey Bridge. The name is said to come from the Dutch sailing craft known as busses which plied these coastal waters a century ago when herring fishing was at its peak.

The Bailey Bridge connecting Southwold and Walberswick

From the Bailey Bridge the estuary begins to widen out and eventually becomes a vast expanse of mudflats and reedbeds around Bulcamp and Angel Marshes.  It is possible to walk from the Walberswick Nature Reserve to Blythburgh at the head of the estuary, passing through a range of habitats including oak woodland and vast areas of reedbed. There is a good vantage point from a bird hide half way along this path where views right across the estuary are possible. Winter is one of the best times to visit especially at low tide when the estuary is alive with flocks of teal, wigeon and pintail as well as greylags, pink footed and barnacle geese. When I visited I was delighted to see one of my favourite birds the marsh harrier majestically soaring over the reedbeds.

Holy Trinity, Blythburgh

Blythburgh, at the head of the estuary is somewhere you could almost miss if driving up the A12. It is dissected by this busy holiday route a fact that has done nothing to enhance the area. However the village itself with its interesting collection of architecture and its awe inspiring church is well worth a visit.

There has been a church in Blythburgh for over 1000 years. Holy Trinity; or the Cathedral of the Marshes, is a magnificent building with many equally magnificent stories attached to it. Inside it is just as grand and quite humbling to behold.

Blyth Estuary Facts

The Blyth estuary has just over 6 miles of tidal water. 

In this short distance it has a large and renowned boatyard; Harbour Marine Services and a sailing club

The whole area is prone to flooding causing problems for many homes and businesses along the estuary; the most recent flood being the tidal surge this December when the A12 was under water and  closed for some time.