The Deben Estuary, Suffolk.

The Deben  Estuary

The Deben Estuary is special to me for a number or reasons. It ignited my passion for the water, reinforced my need for a connection with nature and most importantly was responsible for launching my career as a photographer. I spent 3 happy years living on its shores and in that time I walked its banks on a daily basis, sailed, fished and canoed in its waters and spent many hours behind the lens of my camera photographing it's ever changing scenery. It is a stretch of water that I know intimately and have a huge love for and it therefore seems a fitting place to begin this project.

The Deben Estuary runs from Melton Bridge just outside Woodbridge to the Sea at Felixstowe Ferry. It is a peaceful waterway, popular with sailors, walkers and birdwatchers.

The upper reaches of the Deben at Melton

There is a footpath from the bridge at Melton along the river wall to Woodbridge and further on to Martlesaham Creek. It used to be possible to walk much of the west bank from Woodbridge to the sea, but erosion and rising sea levels mean sadly this is no longer possible.

Melton is the business end of the Deben Estuary with several old barge quays and working boatyards. The quays were once important landings for malt, coal and road materials but today mainly serve the leisure industry. Boatyards still operate here; Skeets and Larkmans at Melton and Robertsons with its barge harbour just beyond Sun Wharf.

Larkmans boatyard

On the opposite bank of the river lies the National Trust site of Sutton Hoo. It was here that King Raedwald, the first King of East Anglia was buried in his 90 foot longship on a hill overlooking the Deben, The discovery of his burial mound full of treasure was one of the most important archaeological discoveries of the 20th Century.  Today Sutton Hoo displays copies of Raedwald’s treasures whilst the original's are exhibited in the British Museum in London.

Woodbridge is the largest settlement on the Deben Estuary and is a pretty market town with a bustling waterfront notable for it's iconic Tidemill.  There has been a mill here since the 12th Century, but the current building dates back to 1793 and is one of only 5 tide mills left in the country and the only one still working. Next to the mill in the old wharf buildings is the Waterfront cafe which makes a great place to stop for a pot of tea and sit for a while to watch the world go by. Behind the cafe is the Tidemill Yacht Harbour, a modern marina and the only one on the Deben.

Woodbridge Tide Mill viewed from the marina

The walk from the Tide mill along the river is lovely. It passes Bass's Dock where you will find a colourful assortment of barges and houseboats and heads out of town along the side of the water meadows where herds of cows graze the flower strewn grasses in the summer. At Kyson point the Deben joins Martlesham Creek; the only navigable creek in the estuary. It is surrounded by woodland and dries out to a trickle at low water but despite this there is still a boatyard to be found at its head.

Waldringfield waterfront 

Waldringfield, a couple of miles further downstream is a busy little village with many connections to the river. There is a working boatyard, a thriving sailing club and and some good riverside walking. I have been here several times to take photographs and have often seen swimmers in the water even in the depths of winter. The Maybush Inn on the river front is a popular spot to watch the world go by whilst the boatyard run river trips from the jetty aboard MV Jahann as well as renting out canoes and kayaks for a small fee.

Saltmarsh and mudflats and the tiny beach at the Rocks

Traveling from Waldringfield downstream the river gets more wild and more beautiful. I have canoed this section several times; the most memorable being early one morning when I was joined by a playful seal splashing around in the shallows.
There is a little area of beach here which is know locally as the rocks. It is a favourite anchorage for sailors but is also home to the Deben shellfish company who specialise in Oysters and Mussels farmed along this stretch of the river.

Further down on the opposite bank is the tiny hamlet of Ramsholt. The round tower church of All Saints stands in a solitary position overlooking the water whilst the Ramsholt Arms; one time ferry house and smugglers inn, is a busy place in the summer.

A misty morning along Ramsholt reaches.

This section of the river is a haven for wildlife with marsh harriers, hen harriers, merlins, avocets, bearded tits and fallow deer amongst my favourite sightings. This is also one of my favourite photography locations and I am always amazed at how many different images it is possible to make from just a short stretch of river. The scenery is constantly changing depending upon the time of day, the state of the tide and the weather conditions. Standing on the bank it is possible to lose yourself in the wild beauty of the estuary; the scenery and the wildlife and I have often found myself pondering my place in this world and the connection I have with it. I have always found Ramsholt a very cathartic place and it is somewhere I still seek out for its ability to make me feel at peace.

Ramsholt river wall

From Ramsholt the estuary gradually widens as it approaches the sea. Here you will find Bawdsey and Felixstowe Ferry; two tiny settlements located on opposite banks but connected by a foot ferry and a shared position at the mouth of the Deben. They feel like two half's of the same village but with completely different characters. The grandeur of Bawdsey with its impressive manor house is in complete contrast to the ramshackle beauty of Felixstowe Ferry with its fishing fleet and bizarre collection of houseboats. Bawdsey is a mecca for watersports enthusiasts whilst Felixstowe Ferry with its abundance of character is popular with artists. I love both places but find the Ferry pricks my curiosity and beckons the photographer within.

The waterfront at the ferry is a mixture of traditional black fishing huts, wooden chalets with an artisan air and a good collection of houseboats; some traditional and some completely unconventional. If you love the weird and wacky I urge you to come and spend a morning soaking up the atmosphere here.

As the Deben prepares to meet the sea the waters get more choppy as they bubble and bounce over the shingle bar at the entrance to the estuary. Keeping watch are two Martello towers one at Felixstowe and one at Bawdsey. These are remnants of Napoleonic times and were built to guard against a constantly feared threat of invasion.

The tidal stretch of the river estuary is now an internationally protected wildlife site and area of outstanding natural beauty. The construction of the river walls which took place hundreds of years ago to protect the surrounding land from rising water levels have allowed the formation of large areas of salt marsh. This habitat is an important environment for migrating birds, waders and wildfowl and is one of Europe’s most important wetland habitats.

Deben Facts

The Estuary has 12 km of tidal water from Melton to the sea.

There are 4 sailing clubs, a rowing club and a waterski club, 7 boatyards and one marina

The estuary is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a RAMAR site

It has over 40% of the saltmarsh in Suffolk and is renowned for its wintering wading and water birds

It has its own association (The River Deben Association) with over 900 members